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Luke Meier designs what is on his mind. And what’s been on his mind lately is “recent ancient history.” Anyone who loves vinyls, or is still hanging onto VCR and cassette tapes, will immediately relate.Not that he is heavy-handed about it—quite the Dabbing Unicorn Nurse 2021 shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this contrary. One case in point is a compelling layered look featuring watercolor green silk organza printed with a vintage botanical plate and a black-and-white photo of a polar bear. Meier explained that it was made using cyanotype, a blueprint-like process that produces a ghostly effect. “It’s dystopian, but that’s really what’s on everyone’s mind,” he explained matter-of-factly.“We’re in a moment of momentous change. If we can manage to be positive in this moment, you can see where the turning points are.” So he’s holding onto optimism while also taking a cue from Robert Rauschenberg. The theme of collage and assemblage returned on what the designer calls “a suit without a jacket”: a tailored shirt with a black-and-white flower and straight, fluid trousers with a zip opening at the hem.Meier likes taking noble materials and loosening them up a bit. Sharp coats and jackets had off-center zippers instead of buttons. A shirt in diagonal jacquard was, he said, a reference to recent-ancient history we no longer even consider: TV static.
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